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Chapter IV-1 - Griffis in Tokyo

1983

Abstract

In which William E. Griffis spends more than two years in Tokyo, teaching science, promoting Christian activities, and writing on Japan for American publications, and how his sister Maggie comes to live with him, and how during those two years he keeps longing for the traditional Japan that he is helping to destroy, the Japan he so precipitously fled from in Fukui. CHAPTER IV-l -GRIFFIS IN TOKYO Robert A. Rosenstone Huge, thrusting noses. Jutting chins. Blue eyes that stare ferociously. Hair, so much of it and such odd colors --blond and red and a hundred shades of brown. Beards swallow features, moustaches droop into scowls. Skin so white, so deathly pale, so unnatural. Repulsive creatures, and their clothing only makes it worse. A riot of outrageous colors. Odd shaped hats. No harmony, no familiar Apatterns to soothe the eye. Jerky movements. Through the streets they lurch and swagger. No grace when they reach for something, no delicacy when they gesture. Voices too loud, insistent, the tones of language oddly harsh. No manners at all. In laughter, they do not bother to cover naked mouths with a hand. In greeting, they neglect to return your bows. February 2, 1872. Yokohama. Eyes and ears expect the familiar, learn the familiar is not what it used to be. A shock to encounter such change. A greater one to recognize the change is not out there but in the self. So that's what it means to be in the interior for ten months. The very sense organs alter. You return with the "ken of a native." You expect smooth faces, indirect glances, contained movements, dark colors, simple robes, cheery greetings. Instead you enter the jarring, raucous realm of an alien race, boisterous invaders